Daniela Soto-Innes joins Peruvian chefs in the fight for sustainable fishing

In the first episode of the four-part mini-documentary, 50 Best Explores Peru, Cosme chef Daniela Soto-Innes joins Peruvian chefs José del Castillo and Francesca Ferreyros to learn about the challenges of sustainable fishing in the land of ceviche.

It’s a warm day in late September and chef Daniela Soto-Innes is wading barefoot through thick mud, treading carefully around a spider’s web of mangrove roots as if she’s trying to negotiate laser beam sensors in a bank heist. This complicated obstacle course is just a fraction of what it takes to extract one of Peru’s most beloved food commodities, the black clam, or concha negra.

Widely available in the gastronomic capital of Lima in the winter months of May through November, the black clam is a delicacy found in the northern Peruvian coastal port of Tumbes, which supplies around 70% of the country’s fish. Considered cheap at less than one sol (three US cents) apiece, relative to five sols for a single sea urchin, the striking black shells are one of the hardest-to-extract seafood varieties in the world, only found in Peru and Ecuador. And yet a combination of their popularity and general ignorance means they are dangerously overfished and undervalued.

Read the full interview on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants website.

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